There are a number of factors to consider
before one leaps to the 'Z' phenomena. These questions are part of how we
quiz our customers, to ensure they know what they want, and why.
Are you adept enough to be able to run one of these machines?
Some people have a hard time switching their shoes... they don't like
change at all, while others are adventurous and jump at the very word
'different' !
The biggest difference in driving a 'Z' is that those 2 sticks in front
of you are your drive, steering, and brake controls, all at the same
time! They do take some element of time to get used to. For most
people, you can easily get the hang of it in minutes, and then master
the art over hours.
What is your terrain?
You will find in most operator manuals for lawn mowers, that 15 degrees
is the maximum recommended angle of mowing. This is even more true for Z
mower, because your rear wheels are the drive, steering, and brakes all
at the same time. If you are traversing down a steep hill, and your rear
wheel(s) loose traction, you are going for a ride - uncontrolled.
Gentle rolling hills that flatten out at the bottom are one thing, but
ski slopes that empty in the road, or worse yet, a pond, are a problem.
What is your goal? Are you looking to save time and mow fast like
the pros do? If you are, remember this: a consumer 'Z' generally
can only mow about as fast as a tractor. Your time savings is in
maneuverability. If you want a pro looking cut, the better
consumer units perform nearly as well, but still fall short. If you
simply want to get the lawn done as fast a possible, and have it looking
great, then you have to buy what the big boys buy. Remember: you
can't do what they do, unless you buy what they buy.
Can you still convince your wife that mowing the lawn is hard work?
I find that mowing with a 'Z' is actually fun. (Mowing, fun?) I'd even
go so far as to say it's therapeutic!
Lawn tractors have less beef, and are intended for
mowing and light chores. Great for yard cleanup with a trailer, etc.
They are certainly better for pulling things around the
yard than a 'Z', but are not as strong as a true garden tractor.
Of course, you get to keep more of those greenbacks in the process. Most
lawn tractors start with a 42" deck and move up from there. Unfortunately,
if you need something narrower, you may need to rethink your options.
Garden tractors are for the moment fading out of existence in
many of the tractor lineups. The perception of the manufacturers is that
most people who want a big tractor would benefit from a big Z for not much
more money. So far, they have been right most of the time. Who knows, they
may come back some day.
If you have a larger lawn, or
just want to get the job finished more quickly, you need to look at 'near pro' , or 'full
pro' level machines.
The difference in design would be:
Separate
pumps and motors (2 pumps, 2 motors vs. 2 pump/motors.)
Results is a stronger, more reliable, and predictable drive. Makes it
easier to turn with finesse. Handles hilly areas better. Ground speed is
greatly increased.
Heavy duty
frame that holds up better over time.
High lift
deck and blades sucks the grass blades up before they are cut, and discharges them
further and more uniformly after they are cut.
Higher blade
tip speeds add to the suction factor. Also allows you to mow successfully at higher
speeds.
You can get quite a bit of machine for
the buck many of the new machines built for heavy duty homeowner, or
lighter application professional use, such as:
You
can make your lawn look like a golf course with a quality walk behind mower! We have a great selection of
walk behind mowers; from the economical to the classic.
Most mowers today can muliplex easily. Now you can switch between mulch,
side discharge, or rear-bag in minutes. Steel decks are
generally on the most cost-effective models (with the exception of Ariens,
who has a terrific strong steel deck that mows exceptionally well). Although cast decks typically are more expensive- generally
they last longer, and cut the best. Like anything else, you get what you pay for.
There is also electric start available on various models.
Things to look for:
Rear wheel
drive mowers are generally easier to use than front wheel drive mowers
because of weight distribution. Their is a lot of weight up front
to ensure traction on the front drive wheels, which means you have to loft
that weight every time you want to maneuver. This is also tough on your
handlebars, which seem to bend over time.
Is the bag
easy on, easy off ?
Are the wheel
quadrants (wheel mounts) made of thin metal, plastic, or beefed up
steel?
Is the
machine actually designed to mulch, or does it perform this function by
default because the output of the deck is closed off?
(The best mulchers actually push the clippings down into the grass.)
Our
Thoughts:
Short of hiring a goat, I try and make
my mowing experience as pleasant as possible. If that means better
equipment, then so be it. Because in the long run, I save money
because I don't have to replace the machine nearly as often. I save
time because I don't have to run around trying to find parts or
service from a product purchased at a big box store that barely supports
their product.