D-I-Y Tips

D-I-Y Tips

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Eliminates & Prevents Ethanol Fuel Problems
Ethanol / E10 fuels increase the amounts of water and sludge in your fuel tank. Star Tron breaks down this excess water and sludge to sub-micron size allowing it to be safely burned away during normal engine operation. Therefore Star Tron prevents phase separation and fuel gelling, eliminating ethanol fuel problems.

Star Tron Is Ideal For All Engines, Including:
ATVs, Cars, Trucks, Boats (2-cycle & 4-cycle), Lawn Mowers, Generator, Heavy Equipment, Snowmobiles, RVs, WeedEaters, Personal Watercraft, Diesel Engines. By breaking apart large clusters of fuel molecules to create more surface area, additional oxygen can react during the fuel combustion phase, resulting in a more complete burn of the fuel charge, improved fuel economy, engine power, throttle response and reduced toxic emissions. Star Tron removes carbon deposits, keeping engines clean and operating at peak performance.

Star Tron® uses its enzyme technology to maintain fuel quality and slow the deterioration of fuel components. Gasoline or Diesel fuel treated with Star Tron® has a shelf life in excess of two years.

Compared to 100% gasoline, E-10 (Ethanol) provides less power and causes a decrease in fuel efficiency. This is because ethanol produces less energy than gasoline. Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning that it will attract water from the air, which is absorbed into the gas. The water bonds to the ethanol, becoming heavier than gas and the mixture sinks, lowering the octane level and causing performance problems. Star Tron’s® powerful enzymes allow water to be dispersed throughout the fuel as sub-micron sized droplets that are safely eliminated as the engine operates. They also slowly break down the sludge.

At Sherwoods, we have this additive in stock for both gasoline and diesel engines.

Fuel Stabilizer

We highly recommend using fuel stabilizer when gas will sit for longer than 1 month, or use it ALL the time for seasonal machines such as leaf blowers, saws, & snowblowers.

Put it right into the gas can itself!
Protect your infrequently run equipment (generators, leafblowers, snowblowers,etc.)
Preserves your handheld 2 stroke equipment
Keep your machine ready for the next season!

Note: In our opinion, we have found that stabilized fuel generally will not be able to hold on to it's octane (burn-ability). However, the value of fuel stabilizer, is that it will at the very least, render the fuel harmless.

You see, fuel wants to break back down into a "dinosaur". It will turn into jelly, then into varnish if given enough time. This leads to costly repairs, and replacement of parts. Worst case scenario, the fuel will need to be drained out and fresh fuel added. It may not be a cure-all, but it sure beats a new carburetor.

Dry Gas

Dry Gas is a different product. It is designed to disperse water in gasoline to the point of being able to be sucked into the fuel pump. In our opinion, it is not a preferred additive for our industry, as most small engines are gravity fed and not pump fed. It also contains alcohol. We get enough of that in our fuel, and believe me it does not help us! Alcohol also eats away at many rubber pieces, such as diaphragms, fuel lines, and more. So, you tell me... think it'll help?

Amsoil PI Fuel Conditioner

This product is mixed with the fuel (20 gal. per bottle, or about 1 oz. per gallon). It helps clean out the carburetor/injection, and also the intake side of the combustion chamber. We have had success in using this in generators that ran roughly from sitting too long with fuel in them. Use this in your car too! It just might be the best tune-up you have ever had for less than $10 !!

I have at least one customer who swears by this stuff, as does his grandfather. They have witnessed firsthand, the benefit this product provides in cleaning the upper combustion chamber.

Our Fuel Stabilization procedure is this:

Put the fuel stabilizer into the fuel can, this stabilizes ALL your fuel.

To maintain most small engines after the season is over:

Pour stabilized fuel into the gas tank of the machine and then run the machine to ensure that treated gas gets through the carburetor (10 minutes).
Turn off the engine.
Empty the gas out of the machine's fuel tank.
Start the machine, and let it idle unil it is out of gas.
Now any residual fuel left in the carburetor or gas tank will be treated, and excess is removed.

To maintain generators:

Stabilize the fuel in the tank(s)
Run the machine 10 minutes to circulate the treated fuel into the carburetor.
Turn off the fuel valve (in-line, or located on the bottom of the tank, hopefully).
Let the engine die out, so there is 'no more' fuel in the carb. (There is always a little left)

This is the most fail safe procedure we have found thus far, but unfortunately, there are still no guarantees.

Take good care of it, it'll take good care of you!

Preventative Maintenance

Important: Always check your engines owner's manual before attempting any maintenance for specific maintenance conditions.

Be aware that dirty engine oil and/or gasoline has been "proven to cause cancer in laboratory rats in California". Although we are more than pleased to help you maintain your machine, we take no responsibility for any repairs that you might perform.

To avoid costly repair and to extend the life of your engine a regular maintenance schedule should be followed. Always consult your engines owner's manual for specific maintenance on your model engine. Also, it is important to realize operating your engine above temperatures of 85ºF, or in dirty dusty conditions, or used commercially, will require more frequent maintenance of the machine.

After first five hours of use:

Most manufacturer's suggest changing the oil and oil filter (if equipped) after the first five hours of use, so be sure and pick up a quart of the correct oil when you purchase new equipment.

After each use:

Always check the oil before each use... this is a good habit to get in. Air cooled engines run hotter than your cars engine, so they can burn oil quickly.

Remove all debris from muffler and screens. Important: always check for debris packed under the starter housing. This is also a favorite place for mouse nests. A mouse nest here will quickly cause an air cooled engine to overheat and cause an expensive repair bill. The other indicator is when your machine has been sitting for months and it wont start... this often means the mice have taken a liking to your coil wire to your spark plug. :-)
Ensure all safety switches on the machine still operate correctly.

After 25 hours or every season:

Change the oil and oil filter (if equipped). Note in the owners manual whether to use straight SAE30, 5W-30, 10W-30, or whatever.
General rule--- at least for the Northeast USA
(Be sure to read owners manual first!)
- Summer Briggs/Tecumseh engines: Straight 30W detergent oil.
- Summer Kohler OHV: 10W-30 oil
- Winter All engines: 5W-30
- Multi seasonal use (blowers, generators, etc.) use 5W-30 synthetic.
Replace the spark plug. Be sure and get the correct replacement. (And don't allow anyone to crank the engine over when you have your fingers on the spark plug wire! Oh boy!)
Remove all debris from the muffler, and from under the deck.
Clean the cooling system. Keep that engine cleared off from grass clippings, leaves, etc. This could also cause a fire if the engine is hot!
Check the air cleaner assembly. Check to see if air filter and pre-cleaner is clogged. It is good practice to replace air filter and pre-cleaner every season, and more often if used in dusty conditions.
Replace fuel filter and check for cracks in fuel line. Be careful gasoline is a explosive hazard. Have plenty of rags handy for any mess that might occur. It is always best to take care of this part out-of-doors.
Inspect linkages to the carburetor for debris, broken parts, etc.
Inspect the muffler... is it rusted out? Also, if you have a generator or other engine that runs for longer periods of time, there are often quiet tone mufflers designed to make the engine seem quieter.
Inspect all wires for wear. If you have a consistent flat in a tubeless tire, you can usually put in a tube to cure the problem (or we can do it for you).
Inspect rewind rope for wear. It is often easier to fix a starter rope when it is 'going' than when it is 'gone.'
Check engine compression. A cheater way to ensure your valves work correctly is this: WITH THE ENGINE KEY IN THE OFF POSITION, AND A COLD ENGINE... put your fingers over the exhaust to seal it off, and pull over the engine. It should only push your finger out and not suck it in. The same (but opposite) is true if you put your hand over the carburetor mouth... it should only suck in, but not blow out. Note: This will not test your piston ring condition, however!
Check the engine mounting bolts/nuts. Important: Vibration can cause engine and other parts to become loose or even fall off. Plus, a rattling engine wears the engine mounts, and also whatever the engine is connected to.
Inspect the undercarriage of the machine for wear; particularly the belts and drive system, and also the blades (which probably need sharpening by now).
If anything is cracked or broken, or you are unsure; have it checked out by a professional.

If you are not sure how to do any of this, we would be happy to help you, or do the work for you by our professionally trained staff.

Helpful Links:

	Equipment manufacturer listing
	Locate Serial numbers on an engine
	Kohler Engine manuals (downloadable)
	Tecumseh's Service Guide for 2 & 4 Stroke Engines
	Sherwood's Service Page (Parts Lookup References)