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[ Up ] [ Handhelds ] [ Engine Numbers ] [ D-I-Y Tips ]
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D-I-Y Tips
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Fuel Stabilizer
We
highly recommend using fuel stabilizer when gas will sit for longer than 1 month,
or use it ALL the time for seasonal machines such as leaf blowers, saws,
& snowblowers.
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Put
it right into the gas can itself!
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Protect
your
infrequently run equipment (generators, leafblowers, snowblowers,etc.)
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Preserves your
handheld 2 stroke equipment
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Keep your machine
ready for the next season!
Note: In our opinion, we have found that
stabilized fuel generally will not be able to hold on to it's octane (burn-ability).
However, the value of fuel stabilizer, is that it will at the very
least, render the fuel harmless.
You
see, fuel wants to break back down into a "dinosaur". It will turn into
jelly, then into varnish if given enough time. This leads to costly
repairs, and replacement of parts. Worst case scenario, the fuel will need to be drained out and
fresh fuel added. It may not
be a cure-all, but it sure beats a new carburetor.
Dry Gas
Dry Gas is a different product. It is designed to
disperse water in gasoline to the point of being able to be sucked into
the fuel pump. In our opinion, it is not a preferred additive, as
most small engines are gravity fed and not pump fed. Yes, some people do use it successfully, we don't
recommend it.
Besides, in NY we already have a form of alcohol included in our fuel,
which allows the fuel companies to mix in water successfully with the
fuel they sell, unbeknownst to us. (Gee, we pay more
for contaminated fuel!) We don't need to add any more alcohol to
the fuel, there is plenty thank you.
And
by the way, alcohol eats away at many rubber pieces, such as diaphragms,
fuel lines, and more. So, you tell me! |
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Amsoil PI Fuel Conditioner
This product is mixed with the fuel (20
gal. per bottle, or about 1 oz. per gallon). It helps clean out the
carburetor/injection, and also the intake side of the combustion
chamber. We have had success in using this in generators that ran
roughly from sitting too long with fuel in them. Use this in your car
too! It just might be the best tune-up you have ever had for less
than $10 !! |
Our
Fuel Stabilization procedure is this:
Put the fuel
stabilizer into the fuel can,
this stabilizes ALL your fuel.
To maintain most small engines
after the season is over:
- Pour stabilized
fuel into the gas tank of the machine and then run the machine to
ensure that treated gas gets through the carburetor (10 minutes).
- Turn off the engine.
- Empty the gas out
of the machine's fuel tank.
- Start the machine,
and run it out of gas.
- Now any residual
fuel left in the carburetor or gas tank will be treated.
To maintain generators:
- Stabilize the fuel in the
tank(s)
- Run the machine 10 minutes
to circulate the treated fuel into the carburetor.
- Turn off the fuel valve
(in-line, or located on the bottom of the tank, hopefully).
- Let the engine die out, so
there is 'no more' fuel in the carb. (There is always a little left)
This is the most
fail safe procedure we have found thus far, but unfortunately, there are
still no guarantees. |
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Take good care of it, it'll take good care of you! |
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Preventative Maintenance |
| Important: Always check your
engines owner's manual before attempting any maintenance for
specific maintenance conditions.
Be aware that dirty engine oil
and/or gasoline has been "proven to cause cancer in
laboratory rats in California". Although we are more
than pleased to help you maintain your machine, we take no
responsibility for any repairs that you might perform.
To avoid costly repair and to
extend the life of your engine a regular maintenance schedule
should be followed. Always consult your engines owner's manual
for specific maintenance on your model engine. Also, it is
important to realize operating your engine above temperatures of
85ºF, or in dirty dusty conditions, or used commercially, will
require more frequent maintenance of the machine.
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After
first five hours of use: |
- Most manufacturer's suggest changing the oil and oil filter
(if equipped) after the first five hours of use, so be sure
and pick up a quart of the correct oil when you purchase new
equipment.
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After
each use: |
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After
25 hours or every season: |
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Change the oil
and oil filter (if equipped). Note in the owners manual
whether to use straight SAE30, 5W-30, 10W-30, or whatever.
General rule---
at least for the Northeast USA
(Be sure to read owners manual first!)
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Summer
Briggs/Tecumseh engines: Straight 30W detergent oil.
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Summer
Kohler OHV: 10W-30 oil
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Winter
All engines: 5W-30
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Multi
seasonal use (blowers, generators, etc.) use 5W-30
synthetic.
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Replace the spark
plug. Be sure and get the correct replacement. (And don't
allow anyone to crank the engine over when you have your
fingers on the spark plug wire! Oh boy!)
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Remove all debris
from the muffler, and from under the deck.
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Clean the cooling
system. Keep that engine cleared off from grass clippings,
leaves, etc. This could also cause a fire if the engine is
hot!
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Check the air
cleaner assembly. Check to see if air filter and pre-cleaner
is clogged. It is good practice to replace air filter and
pre-cleaner every season, and more often if used in dusty
conditions.
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Replace fuel
filter and check for cracks in fuel line. Be careful
gasoline is a explosive hazard. Have plenty of rags handy
for any mess that might occur. It is always best to take care
of this part out-of-doors.
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Inspect linkages
to the carburetor for debris, broken parts, etc.
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Inspect the
muffler... is it rusted out? Also, if you have a
generator or other engine that runs for longer periods of
time, there are often quiet tone mufflers designed to make the
engine seem quieter.
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Inspect all wires
for wear. If you have a consistent flat in a tubeless tire,
you can usually put in a tube to cure the problem (or we can
do it for you).
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Inspect rewind
rope for wear. It is often easier to fix a starter rope when
it is 'going' than when it is 'gone.'
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Check engine
compression. A cheater way to ensure your valves work
correctly is this: WITH THE ENGINE KEY IN THE OFF POSITION,
AND A COLD ENGINE... put your fingers over the exhaust to seal
it off, and pull over the engine. It should only push your
finger out and not suck it in. The same (but opposite) is true
if you put your hand over the carburetor mouth... it should
only suck in, but not blow out. Note: This will not test your
piston ring condition, however!
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Check the engine
mounting bolts/nuts. Important: Vibration can cause engine
and other parts to become loose or even fall off. Plus, a
rattling engine wears the engine mounts, and also whatever the
engine is connected to.
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Inspect the
undercarriage of the machine for wear; particularly the belts
and drive system, and also the blades (which probably need
sharpening by now).
If anything
is cracked or broken, or you are unsure; have it checked out
by a professional.
If you are not sure how to do any of this, we would be happy
to help you, or do the work for you by our professionally
trained staff.
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